Upcountry

This is the part of the island that brings us back year after year. Rural, comfortable, and far from the resort crowds.

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Kula

Our headquarters for most of our trip. Elevation 3,500 feet. The views are beautiful and there's a lot to see and do. You can stop at Grandma’s Coffee Shop and walk Thompson Road for spectacular views of the island (Oprah has a fabulous house here and owns most of the property on the road). It's a very rural area with cattle ranching. It reminds us of Ireland with rolling green hills and stone walls around the pastures.

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Haleakala

I wouldn’t go to the National Park for sunrise because you can't tell if you'll have clouds and it's a long way to go in the dark. However, the park is a must-see. The micro climate is high mountain dessert and has a moonscape feel. The summit is at around 10,000 feet so it can be hard to hike at that level, and can be very cold: bring coats, gloves, hats, etc. If you're up for a hike at that altitude, access The Sliding Sands Trail from the Haleakala Visitor Center parking lot. To drive to the summit, follow the signs to the Haleakala Summit Parking.

 

We've also hiked the Hosmer Loop which is close to the gate to the park. It's a good forest hike and great for bird watchers. Biking down the mountain is a popular trip. I've done it (many years ago) and have wonderful memories of it. It's not for the faint of heart, but is a stunning experience.

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Ulupalakua Ranch

The ranch is a fun destination, you can get lunch and taste the beef they raise. There is a winery across the road that offers wine-tastings and snacks. The scenery is great along this road because you have bi-coastal views of most of the island.

 

Sun Yat Sen Park

Sun Yat Sen Park is a small roadside park in Keokea between mile markers 18 and 19 on the Kula Highway. It's a great place to stop on the way to or from the Ulupalakua Ranch. It's been recently renovated and we often stop there for a picnic lunch. There are spectacular views of the shoreline, surrounding islands and West Maui Mountains. You'll also learn the interesting history of China's visionary leader.

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O'o Farm, Lavender Farm and Kula Forest Reserve - Waipoli Road

The O'o Farm has a great farm to table lunch experience where you tour the farm and coffee growing area, pick vegetables that are then used by the chef in the outdoor kitchen to make your lunch-BYOB. You need to call and make reservations ahead as they only take a small group and are only open a few days a week. The Lavender Farm has beautiful botanical gardens. If you continue on up the mountain road from the Lavender Farm up into the Kula Forest Reserve you’ll see great scenery and if you go to the end of the drivable road there are hiking trails that are some of our favorites.

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Other farms worth a mention

Surfing Goat Dairy and Ocean Vodka Organic Farm and Distillery are two other farms you might visit Upcountry. We've visited Surfing Goat Dairy a few times and it's worth a trip just to do a tasting of the wonderful cheese they make. (Famous for being featured at the first Obama inauguration. Ed.) 

 

Makawao

An interesting old-style cattle ranching town. Shops, galleries, some restaurants. Also in Makawao is the Komoda Bakery where you have to stop and try the stick donuts (my favorite). Up above Makawao on Olinda Road is the Olinda Forest, which has several hiking trails that are some of our favorites. To reach another favorite trail, take Piholo Rd from Makawao, turn left on Kahakapao Rd. and go to the end. You'll find the Makawao Forest Trail. It’s also home to some mountain biking trails so you need to stay aware while you’re hiking.

 

Maui Open Studio

February is Open Studio month on Maui. Each area of the island has a a weekend when you can visit the area artists in their studios and see them at work. 

 

Upcountry restaurants we like

 

Kula Bistro: wide range of choices in all price categories. We really like it; unpretentious atmosphere, chef is from Italy, bring your own bottle. (or pick up something at the Morimoto store across the street. Ed.)  We visit several times each year.

 

Haliimaile General Store: reasonable prices by Maui standards. We usually visit at least twice while we’re there. We like to eat in the front room.

 

Casanova: Italian restaurant; can be a little noisy. 

 

La Provence: small cafe, great for breakfast, can be very crowded, cash only.

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Link to Travel Channel web article about Upcountry Maui

 

North Shore

Paia 

Paia an unusual little town. It seems like a throwback to the 60's and 70's. There are many small, interesting restaurants and shops.

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Cafe Mambo: Our favorite Paia spot for lunch has been recently renovated. 

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Mama’s Fish House: Highly promoted, very busy, a good place to watch tourists spend money. The best part is the view, but you have to go before sunset to get the full effect.

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Ho'okipa Beach Park and Lookout

179 Hana Highway. Great for watching surfers, windsurfers, turtles. (Don't miss the the windsurfing turtles. Ed.) Parking is limited, but we usually find a spot.

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Twin Falls

Rainforest hiking featuring waterfalls and pools. Bamboo groves. Farm stand, a few picnic tables. 6300 Hana Highway. (Ask Beverly about the banana bread. Ed.)

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Road to Hana

We’ve made the trip several times. We highly recommend you at least go as far as Keanae. It’s a beautiful, rocky, black sand coastline and you’ll get the idea. Don't miss the Keanae Arborteum. It's 0.8 miles past the 16-mile marker. (The painted gum tree grove is well worth the price of admission, which is free. Ed.) When we were younger, we made the 10-hour drive all the way around east Maui (ignoring the warnings of the rental car company) and stopped at the Kipahulu area of the Haleakala National Park where you can hike, swim and see the Seven Pools of Kipahulu.

 

As you get past Kipahulu at some point you run out of paved road for a few miles but the paved road does start again. There are a couple of stops we recommend, one is Kaupo Church. You need to search for the entrance and if you don't have four wheel drive vehicle you may need to hike a little way to get down to it. It's a beautiful spot with an interesting history. We met the caretaker, Sam. If he's there ask him to tell you the story of the church, and if you're lucky he'll also tell you the story of his life.

 

A little past Kaupo Church is the Kaupo General Store. If you blink you might miss it but it's worth a stop. (It's worth at least a blink. Ed.)

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You can see Hana and east Maui without driving yourself by booking the trip with a tour company. The Hawaii Vacation Guide (linked below) recommends Holo Holo Maui Tours.

 

West Maui

North Kaanapali

The part of Kaanapali Beach north of Black Rock. Mostly resorts. Not much beach.

 

South Kaanapali Beach

Hotels and the Whaler's Village shopping area. Very beautiful beach with a nice paved walk the full length.

 

We stay at the Whaler which is an older, smaller resort that includes condominium-style units for owners as well as renters.  It is conveniently located next to the Whaler's Village shopping area and several restaurants. Our favorites are Leilani's (upstairs) and the Hula Grill. Reservations recommended as the restaurants are always busy.

In addition, the Westin Hotel has a convenient Starbucks Cafe/Mahele Market near the pool area that is great for take out meals and drinks.

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Kapalua

Kapalua Coastal Trail is fun, if a little rugged in spots. It runs between Kapalua Bay and D.T. Fleming State Park. Along the way you'll pass the Ritz Carlton and Merriman's. Have lunch at the Sea House Restaurant in Kapalua Bay.

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There is limited free parking for the Kapalua Coastal Trail. 1. near the corner of Lower Honoapilani Rd and Kapalua Pl. and  2. a smaller, less well-known lot near the Montage Resort. Follow Lower Honoapilani Rd to Bay Dr., the Montage entrance road. Take your first right, the road will bend to the left and you will see beach access parking on the right. 

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West Maui Drive

I love the West Maui drive up past Kapalua to where the road gets narrow. High up into the mountains it’s beautiful but the road is more treacherous than the Road to Hana. The Nakalele Blowhole is a popular stop; you have to hike a short distance to see it. There is the beautiful, tiny mountain village of Kakakuloa, (the faraway master).  There is a very nice gift shop/gallery- Kaukini Gallery- the views are spectacular and they have some picnic tables so you can bring your lunch.

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West Maui Restaurants we’ve had experience with:  

 

Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop: Featured on Food Network's Diners Drive Ins and Dives. It's really a must stop for  sandwiches, dinner, pies, breads great French fries. On the road to Kaanapali at mile marker 15. If you blink you could miss it.

 

In Kapalua:  Merriman’s: We like The Point (cocktails/appetizers out on the rock patio at the ocean front) to watch the sun set. Get there early. Call first to make sure they don’t have an event and are open. You could spend $100 for cocktails and appetizers but on a nice night we call it dinner and think it’s worth it-the best place to have a glass of wine and watch the sunset! Sensei: Japanese seafood and sushi. We’ve been several times and like it. Taverna: Italian restaurant overlooking a golf course.

 

In Kaanapali north: There’s a Slappy Cakes on the corner of the entrance road (funky but we liked it for breakfast.) Tables have grills and you can make your own pancakes—one in Tokyo and San Francisco. Maybe stop there for brunch on your way around the West Maui part of the island.

 

Lahaina: Mala Ocean Tavern and Star Noodle are open and very good. 

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Central Valley

Maui Tropical Plantation at 1670 Honoapi'ilani Highway is a great spot for lunch or dinner. It's a beautiful and interesting place to see for the old sugar mill equipment on display.

 

And if you want to learn more about the sugar cane era on Maui and the mulit-cultural history of the island, don't miss the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum located at 3957 Hansen Road, Puunene.

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We like hiking the boardwalk trail along the Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge at Milepost 6 on the Maui Veterans Highway, Kihei. It's a coastal salt marsh between Kihei and Maalaea. There is a boardwalk that winds along between Sugar Beach and the marsh that is a nice walk.

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South Shore

Wailea and Kihei

This part of the island is mostly residential and resorts. The Grand Wailea is worth a visit because it’s beautiful and we do like the Spago restaurant.

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Ferarro's at the Four Seasons is great for lunch. Park for free in the Shops at Wailea in the lot to the left side of the mall. Then follow the sidewalk toward the Grand Wailea until you you come to pair of utility service boxes. You'll see a small unmarked path that leads to the Grand Wailea. Walk through the lobby and out toward the paved beachwalk, turn left toward the Four Seasons and within a few minutes you're at Ferarro's.

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Another dining and parking tip for Wailea  - Humble Market Kitchin at the Wailea Beach Resort - Marriott. Park on the right side of the Shops at Wailea lot in the back right corner and Humble Market Kitchin is a short walk away.

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Past Wailea is the Makena lava fields. It's an unusual landscape and worth the drive.

 

Tips & Tricks

Grocery Stores

Our favorite grocery store on Maui is Foodland. According to locals, they have some of the best poke, which we are big fans of. If you are going Upcountry, there is a Foodland store in Pukalani. If you’re headed out to Kaanapali or Kapalua, there is a Foodland Farms store just as you come off of the Lahaina Bypass, Keawe Street Extension. The entrance to the plaza is just before you reach Honoapiilani Highway (Rt 30). 

 

Note:

If you have a Costco membership and prefer to shop there, there is a store very near the Kahului airport. 

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Sunset and Dining

Remember that the sun sets at about 6:30 in the winter. That means if you’re going out to dinner at a restaurant with great ocean views you’ll need to have a 6pm reservation which are usually hard to get at popular restaurants so plan ahead. We sometimes go to those restaurants for lunch as it’s easier to get in (and more cost effective) and you’re assured of a great view.

 

Whale Watching and trips to Lanai

We visit in February, which is the height of whale season on Maui. Tours leave from Maalaea. Park in the parking lot for the shopping area that is up above the harbor.  It's a bit of a walk down to the harbor so plan ahead. (By arriving in time to get a legal parking spot and you'll save an additional $275 in towing fees and rideshare. Ed.) 

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Weather forecast 

The weather is different every time you turn a corner so it’s hard to plan a day. We found this website: http://www.hawaiiweathertoday.com/glenns-daily-weather-narrative/. He lives in Kula near where we stay. His forecasts are the most reliable. You can get info on what the weather looks like up on Haleakala if you’re planning on going there.

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Driving rental cars all the way around the island

I've talked about driving all the way around the east and west parts of the island. Your rental car contract will say that the contract is invalid on certain parts of the trip. Many people, including us, ignore this. I'm not advocating it (in case you have a problem) but we always do it.

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Airport from Kaanapali

We check out 3 hours before our flight—no kidding. The road can be very slow (accidents will close it down). The airport is small and really busy so it takes a long time to get through security. The place to stop for gas is at the Carl’s Jr. just past Maalaea. It seems like you’re not that close to the airport, you are, and if you wait you’ll get into tons of slow traffic and busy gas stations closer in.

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Websites

During the pandemic we surfed the web in search of all things Maui. One site we like is thehawaiivacationguide.com

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(We mostly watch their youtube videos. Erica and Jordan do an excellent job. I like to think it's what "Bev's Travel Tips and Tricks" might be if we were about 40 years younger. Hey, you know what? We made our first trip to Maui in 1981. 40 years ago! Back then the videos looked liked this. Ed.)

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